Also, replace spark if tube seals while apart. New bolt washers come with the rubber and metal pre assembled. ![]() There are two recent threads about this valve cover job that covers all the problems you are having except the stripped bolt. Listen the wiring harness in the back more to make your life easier. Blow the chips out of the hole before threading the helicoil into a cleanly threaded hole. Take your time and get the hole drilled out and tapped perfect. Helicoils come in different lengths, you will need to figure out how long you need based on the bolt/hole you are working with. The kit will come with the correct drill bit, tàp, tool to thread the helicoil in, and a tool to break off the little tang used for installation. You will need a kit for the correct thread size of the bolt. You will probably have to install a helicoil in the striped hole. Unless you all have any tips on how to rig them. Almost every one of the plug retainer clips snapped of.(dang-it) I'm going to have to replace all of them. SIDE NOTE.when I was undoing all the plugs to do the gaskets. Why do those bolts have that washer looking thing on them? Is that an oil seal or a over tightener thing. I'm getting ready to get back into it to redu the front.ĭoes anyone have any tips as to how I can tap it and get a bigger matching cover bolt? Hoping the new gasket and other 2 bolts will somehow be enough. The rear one seemed impossible to get back on without rolling the gasket when CRAMMING it back on under all the stuff in the way. The next day.a puddle of oil on my garage floor.(SOB)!!! I changed the valve cover gaskets. As soon as I put it in cruise control, was the first discovery of the ECO Vibration issue. I took it for a test drive around the city. It was parked on dirty gravel so I didn't see any puddles. Does it shake/vibrate? and does it leak oil? NO-NO MAN> IT"S ALL GOOD. Has anyone had to replace one of the valve cover bolts? Before I bought my ODY. Here's a slightly more detailed post following when I did that.Hi all. I carefully inspected things, especially the mesh between old and new versions. I was able to get a Dorman set, which has been working great. Also, unlike Honda, if the market (you and I) is calling for just a gasket, they will make one. If you can find aftermarket gaskets made by a respectable brand, e.g., Mahle or Dorman, they have a brand to protect so will not willingly sell crap. If it is China brand / no brand / white box / Amazon 3rd party brand, similarly they have no brand to protect, so it is likely to be crap. Honda does not sell the gaskets individually, so if it says Honda, it is counterfeit, and they do not care to make a good product. Complete guess - maybe over those first 50 miles, before the code, sufficient oil was flowing, but it eventually got clogged.Īny no-brand or Honda brand gasket you buy for this is likely to be crap. ![]() From all the videos I watched on this, I found at least one citing that exact failure, throwing a code, which I forget. It is too fine a mesh, not allowing sufficient oil pressure to get through to do the work. I did not check those exact codes, but based on my research prior to doing this on my 2011, I'm guessing the problem is with that screen in one of the gaskets. So can we drive it like this? or do I need to do the OEM gasket for $175 (for the whole part) or would a VCM muzzler be an option? I am ok if the VCM is not working and the gas mileage drops a bit - we are really only using it for trips right now - and it needs to be reliable!!! when the alternator died we were 2 hours from home and I had to get the trailer the next day and go get it. I have no vibrations or anything (anymore than you would on a 237k vehicle! ) So what are my options? I am trying to minimize the $$ invested in this as we are look at a new vehicle right now. I drove the van around the neighborhood and it drove fine. I cleared it and then got the codes again and you can see that also - now a P2659 appeared as well. ![]() You can see what came up in the pic below. I went out there yesterday and attached the autoenginuity (basic for Honda - bought the extended for 7.3L excursion) and read the code. She called me to let me know and drove it home - it drove fine no issues. My wife drove it just before Christmas and after about 50 miles got the CEL. ![]() This is on my 2011 EX-L with 237k miles on it. So before I did my homework, I replaced the gaskets for the Valve Variable Valve Timing VVT Solenoid using the aftermarket - because my alternator was covered in oil and it died.
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